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IT CAN
BE A CHALLENGE TO
GROW WHAT YOU EAT IN NORTH
FLORIDA BUT DON'T LET THAT STOP YOU. The winter squash I planted in my front-yard garden 60 days ago is thriving. The plants are big and healthy, free of worms and other pests, and are showing few signs of disease. If all continues as it has, I should have a bumper crop of Table Queen acorn squash and Waltham Butternut squash, which I will begin harvesting in the next few weeks. There was a time not so long ago when I never thought I’d be saying that.
I had all but given up on growing winter squash because I had such little success in the past. I’m glad I took the time to figure out what I was doing wrong instead of just giving up. I often hear from first-time north Florida gardeners who, because of lack of success their first time out, are on the brink of giving up their dream of growing what they eat. Don’t let that happen to you. Believe me; if I can be successful growing fruits and vegetables in my garden, I know you can be successful with your north Florida garden, too. If you are discouraged because the warm weather crops you planted in August have been ravaged by pests and disease, take heart in knowing that you are not alone. Better yet, most of the cool weather crops you plant in October will not have such intense pressure from disease and insects. The same is largely true in the spring, too. When I don’t have success in the garden it is usually because I planted the wrong variety or planted it at the wrong time (or both). Sometimes it is because I over fertilize a nitrogen sensitive plant or am not aggressive enough with spraying for disease. In any case, my lack of success usually comes down to me. All of the above contributed to my lack of success with winter squash in the past. So this year I chose proven southern performers, planted them on time, nurtured them, have been aggressive with spraying for worms and disease, and increased fruit set by hand-pollinating. To control worms, I have been using Thuricide (bacillus thuringiensis) and Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer & Tent Caterpillar Spray by Fertilome (spinosad), both natural products that are safe for most beneficial insects . I usually alternate between the two from week to week. To control powdery mildew and other disease, I have been applying Soap Shield copper fungicide and Plant Guardian Biofungicide from Gardens Alive. Once again, I usually alternate between the two. With any luck, I’ll be harvesting more than a dozen butternut squash and perhaps as many as two dozen acorn squash. Time will tell. I’ll update you on the progress of my winter squash next month. With the hot weather largely behind us, now is the perfect time to get your garden growing. This time of the year in north Florida we plant beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, collards, kale, lettuce, mustard, onions, spinach, strawberries, radishes and turnips. Plant your favorites in October you’ll soon be enjoying the goodness that can only come from garden fresh homegrown vegetables. - - - -
-- Bob from Seminole, FL writes: I planted Red LaSota potatoes about the end of March and hilled them as the directions said. This was a cold spring and I even had slight frost damage from that may frost we had. The paperwork that came with the potatoes said to let the plants mature until they died off, and two weeks later harvest the potatoes. It said that letting the vines mature was key to being able to store them. By the middle of June when we went to dig them two weeks after the tops died, the potatoes had rotted in the ground. The soil temperature was 103 degrees Fahrenheit in the hill. Noticeably warm to the touch. I planted kale and Kohlrabi that never came up and what did come up had holes all in them. I planted Vidalia onions and they did ok but I should have planted them in fall, this was just an experiment. I planted blue lake green beans and had some luck with them. My tomatoes were attacked by cut worms and as has been the case in recent years attempts the tomatoes that did make rotten before maturing, unless picked green, then would be discolored with a yellow modeled color, and had no size to them. I remember when I was a kid, about 30 years ago, that we used to get huge tomatoes from that very spot. They had a beautiful color and would ripen almost totally on the vine. I planted Bell Peppers which did not do very well either. Most of my sets died in spite of daily watering. I planted cucumber seeds that never came up at all. Lest I sound like I am complaining, let me say that I am ready to try again. Two weeks ago we tilled the garden up again, and are getting ready to try onions, potatoes, carrots, and perhaps romaine lettuce. But I must admit a little discouragement. One question I have is this. About 10-12 years ago the next door neighbor had an above ground swimming pool that he tore pumped out onto the ground and removed, Since about that time, it has been difficult to get crops to grow in that garden. Weeds by the way grow great. Any advice you might have would be greatly appreciated.
While it may not seem like it, there
are pretty easy fixes to your gardening woes! Your potatoes were
planted and harvested at the wrong time. Your modeled colored
tomatoes are the result of insects (probably stink bugs). Your bell
peppers probably were overwatered. They don’t like wet feet.
(Nothing in the garden should be watered daily.) Your kale and
Kohlrabi were attacked by worms. The reason your seeds did not come
up is because they were outdated, not properly stored, planted at
the wrong depth, not kept moist or planted when it was either to
warm or too cold for them to germinate. The chlorine from the pool
water could have affected your soil back when it spilled on it but I
find it hard to believe there are any lingering effects now. You
should have success if you do the following: 1. Plant only
recommended varieties. 2. Plant them only in the recommended time
frames. 3. Work some compost into the soil before planting and
fertilize every three weeks. 4. Be diligent in spraying for pests.
5. Water no more than every-other day during warm weather (once
your seedlings are established); water less in cool weather. Good
luck and let us know how your garden grows this fall!
-- Steve from Jacksonville writes:
I have had luck growing sweet corn in
the fall – all bad! I have had the same experience with worms that
attack the corn stalks early on, well before they begin to silk.
Even Sevin did not control them. My experience has been that I have
to have my sweet corn planted before April 30 in order to best deal
with corn worms. The Borer, Bagworm, Leafminer & Tent Caterpillar
Spray by Fertilome that I am using on my winter squash is labeled
for sweet corn. It is a natural insecticide (spinosad). Perhaps
that could make a difference. Even with the worms controlled, I
don't believe sweet corn does real well in the fall. I believe
sweet corn performs best when the days are hot and long.
-- Lindsey from Tallahassee writes:
-- Vicki from Tallahassee writes:
-- Jeannette from Citra, FL writes: |
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